Dec 2002 - Jan 2003.
This is what you see at the end of the walking track. Spectacular but also a puzzling climbing task. As much descent as ascent. More traversing than climbing. A lot of time to get to the more distant towers - even after the walk from the car (one hour 45 minutes). To add to the logistic problems there is no drinking water on the whole peninsula.
From the end of the Cape there is: 1) A small spire 2) A group of three spires - hard to distinguish in this pic, 3) "The Wedding Cake" - the big flat-topped lump, 4) "The Finger of Blame" and 5) Another spire at the right edge of photo.
It all starts with some abseils. This is the third of them on the ridge route.
A traversing ledge line along "The Way of Allah" leads to the "Cultural Void" - "You can't miss it!". Nick's innovative solution was to lower off into the void and, with sticky tape and a stick, place a cam in the far side. He then pulled across on this and placed a bolt (so it's easier next time!).
An airy crossing. A hand traverse along the horizontal crack leads to the ledge at the base of the finger.
Norm snapped a few photos too.
Climbing "The Finger of Blame" using etriers (aid climbing) with the drill. Now equipped, the arete provides an excellent sustained free climb at about grade 23.
Doug and Nick do the summit thing for the photo.
After each day at the Coal Face it's a long climb out again.
A spectacular commute though.
Sophie pauses to at the top of the cliffs.
Long days at the crag allow the sunset to be admired from the lookout which is most of the way back to the car.
It is normal for climbing ventures to be viewed as stupid. In this case however, all our climbing friends think so too - no one else wanted to come along! By the fourth visit, after all the carrying and false routes and only getting to the end spires (but not climbing them) we were feeling pretty much done-in and ready to chuck it in. Flagging spirits were revived when a friend at work, Mick Underwood, and a bunch of his friends all took some water out as part of a day walk - very appreciated thanks. Kelly also took out 11 litres herself!!
By the fifth trip we knew the route out there so could get straight into it (after leaving the car at 6:45am!). Nick is jumaring up to the top of the Wedding Cake. Doug waits below, while further down, the sea continues its churning.
Things finally came together on the northern of the three end spires. Aid climbing upwards the rock and the climbing were obviously very good. Doug and Nick confirmed this by seconding it free.
At last we were all on top of the spire.
The next formality was to do the free lead. (Photo: Nick Hancock)
After the exertions of the aid climb I found it quite testing. We graded it 22 although were considering 21. (Photo: Nick Hancock)
On top. (Photo: Nick Hancock)
Then commenced the long climb back. We got back to the walking track just before dark. With head torches we got back to the car at 11:15pm (and home at 1:30am!).
FURTHER INFO: If you would like some detailed climbing info for this please e-mail me and I will send it.