Nigel Christmas Australian Alps Walking Track Spring 2006 Walhalla to Tharwa

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Sunday 8th October Day 8

 

Sitting at the camp fire at 6.30 pm and I am about to have hot chocolate and chocolate. There is a male lyrebird not far away going through his repertoire of mimics of forest sounds, and once again I am buggered and ready for bed.

About 3kms from this morning’s camp, I came across the rest of the deer hunters. They were from Leongatha and had four dead deer with them. Husband and wife with son I believe; all farmers.They were pretty daggy but, I ended up speaking to them for 45 minutes or so. Basically they drive along the tracks and look for wallow marks in the puddles. If they are present they let one of the older dogs (beagles, used to use fox hounds but laws have changed) to sniff and see if there is a fresh scent. If there is they let the dog follow it and let out more dogs if the scent is good. They basically follow the sounds of the dogs then and shoot the deer either when it crosses a track or bails up in a creek/river. Apparently the deer try to lose dogs by going into rivers and downstream etc. Pretty smart but, but they forget about the man following with a gun and it is all over.

The track to Mt Sunday was up/down and quite steep. I really suffered since I picked up a food drop yesterday and also have excess food. Also forgot to ask hunters  to make an “I’m alright phone call” when they got home. Ah well (C would have appreciated that).

The old fire trail radiates from the helicopter pad on Mt Sunday. Stuffed if I could find it and as usual the AAWT posts helped none at all. I eventually found the old fire trail by walking around the crown of the hill below the pad. It was as usual overgrown and among many fallen trees. I had camp set up early at 3.00 pm, time to get water. Stag rut mud hole at the marked location and nothing below it. So two hours later, 2.5 kms I had six litres of water. I cannot foresee too many baths between here and Mt Hotham as now I am following ridges and need to descend to find water. At least I can’t smell myself too much (I know I stink though).

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71 Looking from Barkly River Jeep Track down to Rumpff Saddle.

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72 Near Mt McKinty on fire trail heading towards Mt Sunday.

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73  Mt McKinty and few views available.

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74 The slighlty overgrown fire trail which descends from Mt Sunday to The Low Saddle.

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75 The Low Saddle. Water was an issue at this campsite.

 

Monday 9th October Day 9

 

Today has not gone as expected. I was hoping to pull a long 20 kms and make it to Chester’s yards and have a rest day where there is good water. I instead on the long climb to Mt McDonald, which is all on a rocky ridge of The Great Dividing Range pulled or upset my right calf muscle and it started to give me hell the further I went on, I was between a rock and a hard place; no where to set up camp and definitely no hope of any water. So I pushed on slowly and since I could not find any water at The Nobs without descending a long way, I went to a saddle just short of High Cone. Same situation here, a lot of dampness on side of the ridge, but no trace of water. It would require a long descent, but I have decided to let the leg rest. So I have cooked dinner and have 600-700 ml of water left. I will see how leg is tomorrow. I would pay a lot of money for water at the moment and to think I usually shower in it. It is going to be very cold tonight. I have just gone to bed wearing full thermals and beanie. I had nearly everything on outside and was cooling down. Good night.

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76 Unnamed peak adjacent to Son of a Bitch Spur. Photo taken from AAWT heading from Low Saddle to Mt McDonald.

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77 On climb to Mt McDonald.

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78 Looking east on climb to Mt McDonald.

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79 On climb to Mt McDonald.

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80 On climb to Mt McDonald not far from summit. Mt Buller can be seen in distance.

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81 On climb to Mt McDonald Not far from summit. Looking south west.

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82 Mt McDonald.

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83 Mt McDonald.

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84 Mt McDonald Square top and Mt Clear in the distance.

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85 Junction where track from Mt McDonald meets fire trail from Barkly River.

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86 My first Brown Snake on the way to the Nobs.

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87 View from The Nobs.

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88 View from The Nobs.

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89 View from The Nobs.

 

Tuesday 10th October Day 10

 

Well I am finally into the double digit days. It was definitely well below freezing last night. Elevation was approx 1400 metres and I had thermals (top & bottoms), beanie, sleeping bag and liner. Around 3 am I pulled the cord to pull in sleeping bag so only face was exposed. I didn’t overheat. I climbed to High Cone but avoided the summit as the “track’ did and it was very feint and I didn’t wish to lose it. After that the track went very close to Square Top, a funny shaped hill that looks like its description. After that it was Mt Clear. I finished the last of the 300 ml of water left after breakfast at it’s base. I inadvertently avoided the summit as the track I was on, chose this. The views from the lower clear heights were still amazing. It has been interesting how over the last two days my location changes in relation to Mt Buller which is clearly visible mainly due to ski runs and infrastructure. The descent of Mt Clear was very steep and I was very dry by this stage. I even considered filtering muddy puddle water (would clog filter straight away).Anyway I went onto find Chester’s Yards. And it’s “reliable water” was there. It is amazing how some of the creeks don’t have much watershed above them, but have a lot of water, others have none at the surface and are useless. Since I was here around 1 pm I made the most of it. I cleaned/dried all clothes and myself and ran around striped off for half an hour soaking up the sun. Lit a fire to dry the remaining socks, finished dinner at the same time I would normally leave work. Anyway, everything is clean. An easy day and leg felt much better. Life is so un-stressful, no keys, no worries and all I can do is ponder about any problems that family or Caroline are in as I can do nothing. Time is 6.40 pm, time to brush teeth and go to bed and study maps for tomorrow.

 

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90 Mt Clear with Mt Buller ski trails in distance.

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91 Mt Clear.

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92 Mt Clear.

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93 Lovely water at Chesters Yards after walking 10 plus km on 300ml water.

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94 Campsite at Chesters Yards.

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95 Drying the washing at Chesters yards.

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96 Happy face as I have had a wash and drank lots of water.

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97 The most common view of the AAWT is inside your tent.

 

Wednesday 11th October Day 11

 

A long day today but, I am camped near good water and only a short way from Catherine Saddle. I started walking at 6.40 am and stopped at 3.45 pm with 20 minutes for lunch and 5 minutes at Mt Speculation. It is now 6.40 pm and I am in bed and ready to sleep. It is amazing how much sleep you get with no hustle and bustle about. Three peaks about 1700 m and four in the 1600 m+ category. Climbing Mt Magdala provided a clear view of the route that was to be taken to get to the Mt Speculation; across the Cross Cut Saw via Big Hill and Mt Howitt and the Horrible Gap. Mt Magdala also has this large gap in it which has been given the name “Hells Widow”. It is quite stiking to look at. A fair descent before climbing to Mt Howitt across the “Big Hill”. Mt Howitt is covered in grass with no trees. It was so windy, I was being blown off the track and I wondered if going along the edge of the Cross Cut Saw was a good idea.

The Cross Cut Saw was amazing as you are 1600-1700 metres high and can basically see 360 degrees. From Mt Buggery to Mt Speculation was tedious as it was ascent/descent, rocky and even some minor rock climbing. The view from Mt Speculation takes a while to discern: i.e. Mt Hotham, Mt Buffalo etc because you are not used to looking at the mountains from this angle. I will follow the closed off section of Speculation Road to Catherine Saddle from my ‘Camp Creek” camp tomorrow to avoid an “extremely steep descent’.

My knees are feeling ok so I will leave them that way and do another 1-2 kms extra.

 

The camp I am at is obviously Geelong or Caulfield Grammar Schools’ bases. I found log books here, at Mt Buggery and Mt Howitt today: these kids obviously travel far and wide. I would liked to have had a look at Macalister Springs today; maybe another time.

 

Tomorrow is “The Razor” and “The Viking’ which were both clearly visible today. Not sure if I will camp at “Barry Saddle’ or the hill 7km further on. There are water tanks for walkers at both of these. The Barry Mountains are well known as the “Dry Barry’s”, so I hope to get through them quickly with no major water headaches. Looks like it may be on the 14th that I will surface at the Alpine Road and meet Dad. Also navigation is a bit of a pain in this region as it is a Wilderness Area, so they have removed all track markers verbatim. Bed is sloping heavily, ah well.

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98 Track junction near King Billies.

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99 Around Hells Window looking towards Crosscut Saw.

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100 On Big Hill looking Mt Howitt and Cross Cut Saw.

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101 On Big Hill looking back from where I came from Mt Clear on left.

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102 Mt Howitt Trig Point.

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103  On Mt Howitt looking west to Mt Buller.

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104 On Mt Howitt looking at popular track to summit from south.

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105 On Mt Howitt with Mt Clear visable.

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106  On Mt Howitt looking towards the Crosscut Saw.

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107 On Mt Howitt Crosscut Saw on left Razor on right.

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108 On Mt Howitt Razor on left Viking on right.

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109 Just about to start on the Crosscut Saw Viking in the distance.

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110 The Crosscut saw.

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111 Notification that they have removed all of the signs.

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112  Mt Speculation just ahead showing the rock chutes too be navigated.

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113 Mt Speculation with Razor and Viking in the distance.

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114  On Mt Speculation.

 

Thursday 12th October Day 12

 

Long and bad day. Walked from Camp Creek to Barry Saddle. Minor problems around the razor but, that only wasted 15-20 minutes. Getting onto the Viking was difficult and needed some rock climbing, this is hard work with 20 kg on your back. Siseman’s notes on how to get down off the Viking were vague. The VicmapHowitt Selwyn 50K” had the track in the wrong position and Brooke’s Bushmap’s “Watershed’s of the Howqua/Jamieson” was vague as well. Eventually found the canyon so I could start the descent and it was rocky with loose dirt on it. I fell over probably six times (yes mum, I can do it too) due to the footings that gave way after you had tested them. I ended up nearly upside down one time (minor laceration to arm and splinters) and twisted my left knee, much more than it was ever intended to.

I ran out of water on top of “The Viking” while I was looking for the descent path. I was very dehydrated when I finally reached the Barry Saddle. This area is very dry, even the water tank (1m x 1.5 m high with 2 x 2 m roof) is only half full, it is a lifesaver.

There is also a covered log book set up by NRE or Parks Vic and it has around 60 pages filled in. It seems that after a lot of complaints the markers have been reinstated and track defined better. I filled it in. It was also good to read all of the names, I recognized from WWW searches. I really didn’t enjoy today and, wouldn’t recommend the climbing of the Razor or The Viking. The same views can be had from Mt Speculation, Cross Cut Saw, Mt Howitt etc. I will see how I pull up tomorrow: lethargic is my guess.

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115 Well defined track heading towards The Razor.

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116 At the Razor looking towards The Viking.

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117 At Viking Saddle looking up at the Viking summit.

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118 On Viking looking at the Razor.

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119 On Viking looking back at The Crosscut Saw.

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120 On Viking looking at Wonnangatta River Valley.

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121 Trying to get off The Viking, finally found the route down.

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122 Welcome relief of water at Barry Saddle. The post has a log book underneath.

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123  The Barry Saddle. Tree has water sign on it indicating the water tank up the track.

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