Nigel Christmas Australian Alps Walking Track Spring 2006 Walhalla to Tharwa

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Friday 3^rd November Day 34

A bit of a lazy start but at least the rain had stopped. I headed up the track and eventually arrived at the site to cross the Murrumbidgee River. It was rocky base but deep enough to go over the top of the boots and more. I was lucky as I have read of people having it waist deep and fast running. There is no bridge for a long way in either direction.

The track for the first time in NSW ventured off a road/fire trail; it was obviously a big deal as they put a signpost up stating how you should navigate to the next road (it was easy). I had lunch at Millers Hut which was good as the 150+ flies had to wait outside for me. Shortly after leaving it really started to rain and it set in for a few hours. I continued along to Hainsworth Hut and read the log book. I decided to go onto Old Curango Homestead and stay the night there. The homestead is quite interesting mainly due to the walls being covered in 1940-50’s newspaper instead of wallpaper, makes for interesting reading. NPWS/KHA(Kosciuszko Huts Assoc) have fixed the hut up considerably and are placing a Perspex over the walls to prevent further damge/vandalism.

I have set up the food in the kitchen and the tent outside. Tommorow to Blue Waterholes and will most likely have a rest day.

280 Bullocks Hill Fire Trail.

281 First time in NSW track leaves a road or fire trail so they put up a sign. Pretty funny as it would be very hard to get lost here.

282 The mighty Murrumbidgee.

283 The mighty Murrumbidgee Socks got partially wet.

284 Millers Hut.

285 Around Harrys gap between Hainsworth Hut and Old Curango on Mosquito Crk Fire Trail.

286 Old Curango Homestead Newspapers on wall typically 1940s.

287 Old Curango Homestead Newspapers on wall typically 1940s.

288 Old Curango Homestead.

Sunday 4^th November Day 35

Lovely warm night in the tent with no rats moving about etc. There was a really thick fog/mist all over the valley this morning after all of the rain yesterday. It cleared quickly once the sun hit it and became warm and humid. The flies were as bad as ever. I try to put them out of my thoughts as otherwise they will manage to drive me crazy.

Shortly after rejoining the Mosquito Creek fire trail a 4wd load of rednecks came flying past, ripping up the track with all of there camping gear in the back canopy section. Weekends and idiots; especially considering it is a closed track. I checked out Bill Jones Hut (well built tin/dirt floor) and continued to Blue Waterholes. The Coolemon Plain before the waterholes are interesting as they have dry watercourses. It is limestone country and the water disappears below.

I am camped on Cave Creek just upstream from Clark Gorge. There are people everywhere here as it is obviously a popular ACT tourist spot. I have checked out the Clark Gorge and gone into a couple of the minor caves a short way only. I also walked up the Blue Waterholes access road and checked out Coolemine Homestead. It looks like a couple of have been half rebuilt after being left derelict for many years. Once again the walls were lined with newspaper, typically around 1939. Amazing articles during the war years and also advertisements. Tommorow I will pack up and then check out upsteam. This is Cooleman and Murray Caves and Nicole Gorge. I will move on then as the flies drive you crazy if you are just sitting around camp; the tent is usually to warm and not enjoyable. The huts are perfect for relaxing with no flies.

289 Bill Jones Hut on the way to Blue Waterholes.

290 Brumbies on Cooleman Plain.

291 Coolamine Homestead.

292 Coolamine Homestead.

293 Coolamine Homestead.

294 Coolamine Homestead.

295 Coolamine Homestead.

296 Gorge on Cave Creek at Blue Waterholes.

297 Cave Creek at Blue Waterholes.

298 Gorge on Cave Creek at Blue Waterholes.

299 Cave Creek at Blue Waterholes as creek appears from dry water bed.

Sunday 5^th November Day 36

I had everything all packed by 8am and then proceeded to the start of the Nicole Gorge. The few morning hours that are fly free are truly bliss. I found and explored Collemon Cave; nothing special. I didn’t feel like getting dirty and going through the interconnecting tunnel to the other part, especially after yesterdays bath/clothes wash.

I then proceeded along the gorge and then went all of the way to the siphon in Murray Cave. NPWS obviously only wants people in these two caves as they are basically long tunnels and very hard to get lost in them. You could even probably bumble your way out in darkness if your torch died. I took a few photos but most of the stalagmites/stalagtites had been removed in the past (broken off). I retraced my steps, picked up the pack and then set off back away from Blue Waterholes and back onto the AAWT. Seventeen Flat is very long and seemed to take forever to get to the end of it. I didn’t make the side trip to Pocket Hut but further along was Oldfield’s Hut. This hut was one of the better ones and was very neat and tidy. I also think it may be the last hut on the AAWT.

The climb up Murray Gap actually had some steepness to itthat I have not seen since climbing out of Threadbo. I left the pack at Murray Gap and procedded to climb ACT’s highest mountain; Bimberi Peak. It took 50 minutes up and 40 minutes down; so easy minus a pack. The view was amazing as there are no other hills/ranges to block it out. I was pretty sure I was looking at Mt Jagungal; but Icouldn’t see the Telecom tower on Black Mountain in Canberra.

I left Murray Gap and climbed down to the Cotter River and have set up camp near the rangers out station ‘Cotter Hut’. I am not supposed to camp here but I think it is unlikely that I will be caught. By the way I entered ACT at Murray’s Gap. I now have 40km left of the AAWT, I think I will go to the Booroomba Rocks campsite tomorrow and that will leave 13km for the last day. Therefore I should walk out on Tuesday morning, unless I find something interesting to stay at. It will also give me plenty of time to get somewhere to stay in Canberra or get on a bus etc. Today according to the book I walked 29.5km plus around 5km in Nicole Gorge exploration. The body is really used to the exercise now.

300 Cooleman Cave.

301 The siphon at the end of Murray Cave. Would have to have gone diving to get past it this time.

302 Murray Cave entrance.

303 Oldfields Hut with Bimberri Peak above.

304 On Bimberri Peak looking back towards Mt Jagungal.

305 On Bimberri Peak Cotter Dam below.

306 Happy Nigel, 50km to go.

307 Murray Gap and the entrance to ACT.

Monday 6^th November Day 37

The bloody kangaroos were so unafraid of humans that they woke me a few times overnight as they kept feeding on the lawn around the tent. Today has been overcast with some light patchy rain which has been pleasant as it is not fly whether. The climb up to Cotter Flat was not represented to well on the topographic map, once again some sections were steep. The track then descended into the Orroral Valley which was full of kangaroos. The remains of an old satellite tracking station were here as well as old homestead buildings futher down.

I was annoyed as I crossed the bridge there was a sign proclaiming no fishing upstream of the bridge to protect the trout brreding ground; they are a bloody introduced pest. The sign was by Namadgi National Park. The climb to the road just short of Tower Rocks was quite a good one, definitely sweating heavily. The road then descends to the Honeysuckle Creek camping ground. This site is the old Honeysuckle Creek tracking station used in the Apollo space missions etc until 1981. There is no buildings remaining, the dish was moved to Tiddinbilla nearby. I carted water here to the camp/picnic ground at the Booroomba Rocks car park, They have altered this area now and there is a no camping sign. This is bad because if I had actually followed the AAWT and not gone into Honeysuckle then there was no where suitable to camp between the Orroral Valley and the Tharwa Visitor Centre. Once again I am hoping I will not be caught. Site is very poor anyway, at least I don’t have to fetch water. It also costs money to stay at Orroral/Honeysuckle; you pay before you camp which is very hard the way I came in.

I climbed Booroomba Rocks this afternoon and finally was awarded a good view of Canberra and suburbs. I finally made out the Telecom Tower on Black Mountain and Mt Ainslie. I could then follow where the majority of Canberra lies.

I could have easily finished today but I didn’t want to be on the outskirts of Canberra at 4pm in the afternoon. I have done around 27km today with a 13km tomorrow.

Only question is now getting to Rohan’s and then where to continue my holiday? Rohan’s, Deniliquin, Geelong? One things is I don’t holiday in Dubbo. Caroline will go spare, but if I return to Dubbo early I will just go back to work and keep the holidays.

One final dinner to go, I will have 5 days of food left over. I am out of muesli bars, fruit bars, hot chocolate etc and really down to breakfast, lunch, dinner, dried fuit and jerky. There are quite a few things I would like, but mostly it is a good counter meal with a beer at a pub; maybe the Kingston Hotel. Not sure what to do tomorrow , think I will ring Dad and make sure they did not change there mind to be in Canberra and then make my way into Canberra and find a YHA or go to the Kingston Hotel (has rooms). Think I will try for a bus to Albury/Wodonga from there. I like the uncertainty.

308 Orroral Valley. Tower Rocks straight ahead.

309 Honeysuckle Creek tracking station The dish was later moved to Tidinbilla.

310 Last night on AAWT on top of Booroomba Rocks, I could see the Black Mountain Telecom Tower.

Tuesday 7^th November Day 38

Bloody typical, it started to rain lightly at 3am and continues to daybreak. Once again a wet tent when I didn’t need one! I will have to unpack, dry, repack when I reach Rohan’s new house(debt).

The walk route had been changed a lot from Siseman’s description by ‘Environment ACT’. The route now goes north along Bushfold Flat and then cuts up to the Mt Tennant fire trail junction with the foot track that descends to the Tharwa visitor centre. The track had also been altered to follow higher ground as it descended to the flats as well. Generally they had made the track less resistant to wear and tear and kept it away from the water. It really was painful as they had put in many switch backs to lessen the grade and also about 1000 steps. The steps upset the knees in no time at all even though the climb/descent was not great in the scheme of what I had done; give me a steep fire trail anytime.

Three hours later I was at the visitors centre. I removed the leggings, took the photo and marveled that it was now finished. I was 32k from Canberra according to the sign and I asked three rangers what was the easiest way to get to Canberra. Apparently there was no bus service at Tharwa and the bridge was closed over the river so I had another 6-8km extra. After talking to them for a while one of the higher authorities said ‘ I will get Bob to give you a lift’ Soon enough Bob turns up and starts driving me to Tuggeranong and when he couldn’t find the bus station and ascertained I was going into Canberra he dropped me off at Woden. I caught a direct service into Canberra, so like an hour later I was checking into the Canberra City YHA. Bob was very interested in the walk and had had a friend that had done it twice. He also owned a copy of Siseman’s guide book. He was so interested his concentration on the driving was very low indeed. I got a bed in a four share room for $28 and went straight up even though the official check in time was midday.

First up was the shower, I had put all of the stinking laundry on the floor in a pile. As I was heading to the shower another guy was entering my/our room. Very funny as when I came back the window was wide open., it must have really smelt bad. Washing and drying the clothes was next and then I was looking for lunch. I had a scoth fillet at the Moose Bar (ok but needed vegetables) and a couple of beers. This place was so cheap, $3.50 for a pint of Carlton Draught (570ml), so I had another and later in the afternoon two more. I also checked out the museum/gallery, booked the Greyhound Bus ticket to Albury ($52) and got a serve of McDonald chips (only because they were freshly cooked as I went past) I eventually found the supermarket in Canberra Centre, it was called ‘Superbarn’. I had never seen one of these before and wondered if it is Coles/Myer or Woolworths backed?

I ended up buying a $7 large chicken and a salad tub for dinner. I ran into my Swiss roommate and asked if he would like some chicken. Yes was the answer considering his meal had no meat in it that he was preparing. I then started back to the supermarket for the essential red wine and chocolate. Trying to ring Caroline then was typical, before she wasn’t home and now she was on the phone. Eventually got onto her and she rang back and talked for a couple of hours. It was good to catch up. I went to bed and found the Swede already in bed. I woke briefly around 1am when the other guy finally made it home. I then fully woke up around 2am because he was snoring like crazy. I turned the light on and intended to get him to roll over. Hilariously he was only half on the bed lying down with his legs still on the floor. I knocked him around a bit but he was comatose on grog and I didn’t even get a response. I picked up his legs and got them onto the bed even though his boots were still on. He stopped snoring then thankfully.

311 On the descent from Mt Tennant towards the Namadgi Vistitors Centre and the end of the AAWT.

312 I have finished the AAWT Standing in front of the Namadgi Visitors Centre with Mt Tennant in the clouds behind.

Wednesday 8^th November Day 39

He didn’t even roll or move to 7am. When I finally saw him awake around 9am he was not a well boy. I had ham and cheese croissants for breakfast, packed the backpack and left it at the YHA. I walked over to the War Memorial to see if much had changed (it hadn’t). I returned to the YHA and then loaded up and went to the Jolimont Tourist Centre to catch my bus to Albury. At the moment I am heading to Yass. Mum and Dad were still in Wodonga (but were leaving) and have stuck around and will pick me up from the railway station in Albury. It should be a good night as I have really missed them. Caroline said Rohan has a list of things for me to do at his new abode. I am definitely a convert to the YHA hostels, clean, full coking facilities and around 1/3 – ½ the price of a dirty hotel/motel.

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